The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care

Can I be frank with you? I don't take hair advice from very many people. I really have to trust the person I'm taking advice from and the person really has to know what they are talking about. One of the people that I trust implicitly when it comes to high texture hair know-how is Audrey Davis-Sivasothy. I have learned so much from her articles, so I was so excited to get her new book entitled The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care.

Just browsing through and reading some of the chapters, I can already tell you that this is a must have reference book for women with high texture hair. In the book, Audrey actually lists recommended products based on what they can do for your hair's protein/moisture balance. The book is very technical, but also insanely practical and straight-forward. If you want to know the science of how our hair thrives and flourishes, get this book. It literally is a text book for managing high texture hair. You'll read about the hair structure, scalp structure, porosity, building healthy hair regimens, product selection, coloring, transitioning, hair care for children and so much more.

Good books are an investment and worth every penny you spend on them. When you splurge on a $25 hair product, you and I both know that sometimes it's a hit, but a lot of times... it's a miss. With books like this, you actually get the knowledge you need to make more informed decisions as a consumer and save yourself time and money on your hair. So, before you take another trip to Ricky's, Whole Foods, Sephora or Target to hoard hair products that may or may not work, I highly recommend that you invest in The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care. I certainly will be keeping my copy of the book bedside while on my journey to waist length.

Finally there is an answer to the mystery of growing and maintaining healthy hair for those of African descent. All of the serious research and data concerning Black hair has been compiled into one easy to navigate text. Never have I seen a more in depth look at hair. After spending loads of money on styling product after styling product, then finally hiding my own hair with braid extensions, I feel more confident with styling my naturally worn hair. The book offers tons of pictures to guide you along the more technical points. You learn any and everything there is to know about the most unique hair type on the planetfrom the varying curl patterns to the structure of the individual hair strand. You'll even become a wiser consumer after learning what all of those scientific ingredients listed on the backs of styling products mean for your hair. Anyone who has struggled to grow soft, healthy, vibrant hair, whether natural or relaxed, should read this book.

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The book came super fast. I did not mind paying the price although I thought the paperback was a bit pricey for "me."

I sat for hours reading. I like how the book goes into the history and scientific side of hair. It is very thorough on this matter. I also liked how it focused on the health versus styles.

I became disappointed when trying to figure out what applied to me as a natural. I was not sure if some regimens could be applied to me since I do not have a perm. I felt the book tailored more to permed hair than natural hair or women transitioning from perms to naturals. It seemed as if it kept going between the two in regards to what regimens to apply so I got lost. There are 3 chapters that are dedicated to permed hair. I would have liked to have seen that much attention to natural hair ALONE. By this I mean, 3 chapters on how to take care of natural hair without having to filter out, sentences prior or after, tips on permed hair.

Also, I did not understand why having to choose several shampoos when the focus, from what I have learned, should be on conditioners/leave-in conditioners.

I am going to continue to use YouTube. I also ordered "Grow It" and "Ultra Black Hair Growth" in hopes they will provide further insight. This book did not provide the insight I was looking for, add to what already know or have viewed on YouTube.

I'm glad I actually read the book and am not wondering "what if" however it is going back :(

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Since I was a little girl, I always wanted full, long, thick, silky, shiny, and even straight hair. Since I was 10, I started to be obsessed with black hair care and hair. I researched for the past 10 years on how to grow and take care of black hair. I used gimmicky super growth hair products such as "Doo Gro". It didn't cause a miracle growth for my hair. Every time I searched and collected hair care advices from Sophisticate's Black Hair Styles and Care Guide magazine, various sources from the internet, and I was sub scripted to various "hair care" enthusiasts/gurus on YouTube. Since I bought this book, I de subscripted from over 60 "hair care" enthusiasts/gurus on YouTube. Less few months ago, I bought the Ultra Black Hair Growth 2 2000 edition by Cathy Howse. I like her book, but it wasn't technical enough for me. I recommend you buy and read Ultra Black Hair Growth 2 book first (for a basic concept), then the Science of Black Hair book. The days of searching for adequate black hair care information are over, thanks to Mrs. Davis-Sivasothy. Most of the black hair info I got from these women in magazines, Youtube, or the internet; they were either were over the top & extra with their hair care regimen; they used overly expensive hair care products or secretive with their hair care regimen; they promoted (gimmicky) expensive hair care products (that they made or sponsored by the company), want you pay hundreds of dollars per month to join their hair care thread, or just misleading. Mrs. Davis-Sivasothy addressed 95% of my questions. Thank you, Mrs. Davis-Sivasothy. By the way, I haven't tried the methods or products she recommended yet. My other 5% answers I'm currently searching for great (humidity resistant) alternatives to relaxers. Do blow dryers with diffusers doing what they claim, like reducing the chance of frizz in curly hair? (This info don't have anything, nor I expect this information from Mrs. Davis-Sivasothy)

THE PROS:

She breaks down all the ingredients that you need to know, identify, and look for in hair products. She addressed what to look for in shampoos, conditioners, moisturizers, humectants, proteins, and oils. She breaks down a hair care regimen for everyone and their lifestyles. Whether you a natural, relaxed, texturized, transitioning, colored, or the sew in weave wearer. She covered a hair care regimen for all. She covered a hair care regimen for people who wear cornrows, twists, plaits, braids, locs, and other hair styles. She addressed a hair care regimen for people who exercises, and how to prevent the hair from sweating out if straighten. She addressed a hair care regimen for children and women with gray hair. She mainly focused on the balance of moisture/protein hair care regimen. Both of the moisture hair care regimen and protein regimen is broken down separately. They are listed in their basic of shampoos, conditioners, and moisturizers. You can use either (hair care) regimen depend on your hair porosity. She listed hair friendly gels and other styling products. She addressed protective hair styles. She listed all the product brands that fit every income budget. She addressed what to looked for in combs, hair tools, ceramic flat iron, ponytail holders, towels, and head scarves. She breaks down, how to detangle hair methods. She teaches you, how to stretch a relaxer. She teaches you how to apply a chemical treatment such as relaxer and how to texlax properly. (I find out I was relaxing my hair wrong) She addressed the differences in a salon relaxer and at home relaxer. She breaks down the differences of relaxed, texlaxed, and texturized hair. (Search on Google to see how a texlaxed hair looks like). She addressed a hair care regimen for young children and graying hair. She addressed the rumors regard to mineral oil and petroleum jelly. I LIKED THAT HER BOOK WAS VERY OPEN MINDED & NOT DEGRADING AFRO-TEXTURED HAIR IN ALL NATURAL & CHEMICAL TREATED FORMS.

THE CONS:

The L.O.I.S's hair typing system wasn't in color. I wish she provided full colored head shots photo examples of each distinctive curl pattern and hair textured types. The "L" and "I " descriptions were confusing. She didn't address "Scab hair" or provide photo examples. She didn't address the claims of color preserving hair care products. Do lace wigs or wigs have negative effect on hair? What are the effects of adhesives or glues that are for lace wigs, wigs, or hair weaves? What is consider normal, coarse, dull, oily, and fine on hair labels? She didn't address the rest of what ingredients to avoid in hair care internet rumors (think propylene glycol). Remember the YouTube's videos or hair articles like, "What 10 ingredients to avoid in hair care?" She didn't address can you color over previous colored hair without damage.

All over, I recommend her book, and IT IS A MUST HAVE. I SUGGESTED MY FRIENDS & MY SISTER TO READ IT. IT IS VERY INFORMATIVE. GOOD JOB Mrs. Davis-Sivasothy! You put my journey for searching black hair care to rest.

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(You can skip the part below of the review)

This book is the only print media (IMO) demonstrates realistic examples of authentic afro-textured hair and bi-racial textured hair compared to other Medias and magazines.

HERE SOME NOTES REGARD TO HAIR TEXTURES FROM ME ON SCIENCE OF BLACK HAIR BOOK

If you read the L.O.I.S's hair typing system. Remember the curl pattern size can range from small to extra large.

If you are biracial, multiracial, have wavy hair, or curly hair. You might follow under the hair descriptions such as Thready, Spongy, or Silky.

If your hair is afro textured hair, you might follow under the hair descriptions such as Wiry or Cottony.

Remember each person with Thready, Spongy, or Silky. Hair luster (shine) content varies from non to high shine (think Arjuni's hair weaves). Like a Caucasian woman (like with British, Scottish, or Irish background) with straight, wavy, or curly hair, the hair might not be shiny. Hispanics, Latin, Eastern European descendant, Middle Eastern, Native American, or Asian with straight, wavy, or curly hair; might have hair that either low shine to mid shine or luster. An East Indian with straight hair might have hair that has mid shine to high shine. A mixed (with black) person with wavy or curly hair hair varies from no shine to high shine/luster.

Texlaxed and Texturized hair do not look alike. S-Curl perm is a texturizer.

Examples of Natural Afro Textured Hair (without hair extensions)

pg. 114, pg. 145 in Figure 47, pg. 147 on Figure 49, pg. 148 on Figure 51, pg. 149 on Figure 54, pg. 150 on Figure 56., page 151 on Figure 57, pg. 153, pg. 180 on Figure 65 (Colored locs)

Examples of Natural or Transitioning Afro Textured Hair (without Hair Extensions)

pg. 155 on Figure 58 and Figure 59.

Examples of Salon Relaxed Afro Textured Hair (with hair extensions)

pg. 11, and pg. 143 on Figure 46. And pg. 205.

Examples of Salon Relaxed Afro Textured Hair (without hair extensions)

pg. 148 on Figure 50.and Figure 52. pg. 150 Figure 55. pg. 166 Figure 62.

Examples of Flat Ironed (non Chemical Treated) Afro Textured Hair (without hair extensions)

pg. 13

Examples of Natural Bi-Racial Textured Hair or Curly Hair (without hair extensions)

pg. 49 on Figure 17 and pg. 232 on Figure 75.

Examples of Salon Relaxed or Straightened Bi-Racial Textured Hair or Curly Hair (without hair extensions)

pg. 194 on Figure 69 and pg. 205

How I know because my mother has curly hair and she relaxes it. Her hair looks similar to this texture when straighten.

P.S In black hair care ads, most of the models have natural wavy or curly hair. They are usually biracial, multiracial, Caribbean, or South American heritage. They are usually are photo shop, airbrush, bronze (spray tan), or tan in ads to appear more ethnic looking. Their hair is straightened with flat iron and glossing products are used to enhance shine. Digital enhancement are use to enhance hair shine. This advertisement is common in infomercials, Mizani's ads, Profectiv's ads, and Keracare's ads. On relaxer and other hair care ads they use black models with hair wigs, hair weaves, and partial sew ins. The woman on Creme of Nature's Normal Relaxer box, has a kinky straight lace wig that been ceramic flat ironed. How I know? When you part lace wigs, the part looks way thinner in width compared to a normal part on a real scalp. The hairs on the roots of the scalp hair on lace wigs looks narrow than the real scalp. The part on real scalp is wider than the lace closure part, but real part is narrower than an invisible part. On natural hair ads, most of the women have a texturizer or wearing a wig. On hair care ads aim at curly hair. These are not the women natural hair, but they receive a PROFESSIONAL CURLY PERM OR WIG. In HAIR COLOR AD COMMERCIALS, THEY USE WIGS & DIGITAL ENHANCEMENT TO CHANGE THE COLOR OF THE HAIR. ON TEXTURIZER OR S-CURL ADS, THE MEN HAVE A MIXED RACE likes Trinidadian (who have darker skin or who looks more ethnic). They have natural wavy or curly hair; most of the time those are not texturizers or S-Curls. Here is the marketing game on hair advertisements. I HOPE THIS HELPS! How I know? I had been paying attention to ads since 2006. I'm going to college for merchandising, business, and marketing. I'm currently trying to receive my associate of arts degree.

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